Build the saw bench today.

1. Sweep a level patch of driveway or solid garage floor wider than 2 × 2 m.
2. Move the unplugged saw outside this area. Lower and transport-lock the head.
3. Put screws and drill bits in a tray—not on the plywood where they can scratch it.

Done when: the floor is firm, the saw cannot be started, and you can walk all the way around the work.

1. Check every foot, hinge and spreader for shipping damage.
2. Open the legs fully and press down on the top—not hard, just enough to confirm it does not fold or rock.
3. Compare the two tops with the spirit level. Set aside any visibly twisted trestle for wing duty.

Done when: both trestles stand without rocking and have the same usable notch pattern.

1. Orient both trestles front-to-back and parallel, about 700–800 mm apart left-to-right.
2. On each trestle, choose one notch toward the front and one toward the rear. The pair should be as far apart as practical while still fitting under the 800 mm panel.
3. Put a batten into the chosen front notch on both trestles; put the other into the rear pair.
4. Confirm each batten seats without force. Do not hammer wood into plastic.

Done when: the two ribs lie parallel, 48 mm tall, and are supported by both trestles.

1. Choose the flatter, cleaner plywood face as the permanent top.
2. Lower the panel onto the ribs with the 1200 mm direction running left-to-right and 800 mm front-to-back.
3. Centre it left-to-right over the two trestles. Measure the overhang at both ends; make the values equal.
4. Centre it front-to-back over the two ribs. Keep a useful free lip at front and rear for clamps.
5. Put the saw—still unplugged—on the panel for a fit check. Confirm the entire base and all four feet are supported. Then remove it again.

Done when: the plywood is square to both ribs, has balanced overhangs, and supports the whole saw footprint.

1. Clamp the plywood gently to both ribs so nothing can shift.
2. At the left and right edges, mark the front and rear edges of each rib.
3. Find the midpoint between each pair of marks. A 36 mm rib’s centre is 18 mm from either edge.
4. Use the square or straightedge to draw two faint centre-lines across the top.
5. On each line mark four holes about 100, 400, 800 and 1100 mm from the left edge.

Done when: there are exactly eight cross marks, all centred over solid rib—not over empty plastic.

1. Fit a 3 mm pilot drill. Mark 35–40 mm depth with tape on the bit so you do not drill through the 48 mm rib.
2. Wear eye protection. Hold the drill perpendicular to the plywood in both directions.
3. Drill one end hole in the front rib and the diagonally opposite end hole in the rear rib.
4. Stop, remove dust, and confirm both holes emerged into the rib centre.

Why only two? If something slipped, you correct two holes—not eight. The diagonal pair pins the layout without letting it swivel.

1. Cut a shallow countersink just wide enough for the screw head.
2. Drive one 4.0 × 50 TX20 screw into each pilot hole at low driver speed.
3. Stop the moment each head is level with the plywood. Do not crush a bowl around it.
4. Recheck all overhangs and rib alignment before continuing.

Done when: the panel cannot slide, the ribs remain seated, and both heads are exactly flush to the touch.

1. Drill, countersink and drive the remaining end holes first.
2. Recheck that each rib is straight; clamp any small bow toward the pencil line.
3. Complete the four inner holes.
4. Run a bare palm carefully over every head. Nothing should catch.

Done when: there are four flush screws in each rib, no split wood, and no visible gap between plywood and rib.

1. With one adult at each end if needed, lift the complete top straight up.
2. Turn it enough to inspect the underside: all screw tips must remain inside the ribs.
3. Write FRONT, LEFT and today’s A/B/C measurements underneath.
4. Lower it back so both ribs drop into the same four notches.

Done when: the top lifts off without tools and returns to the same location without forcing.

1. Press down over each corner. The opposite corner must not rise.
2. Push gently from left, right, front and rear. The top must not slide in the notches.
3. Put the level front-to-back, left-to-right and diagonally. The important result is no twist and no rocking; perfect level to the horizon is optional.
4. If a foot rocks, shim under that rubber foot with a firm plywood scrap. Never make a soft cardboard foot on damp ground.

Done when: all four corner pushes feel dull and solid; nothing shifts or lifts.

1. Get adult help lifting if needed. Use the transport handle and the base handhold—not the switch handle or cable.
2. Centre the base left-to-right. Keep the operating controls and front clamp lip clear.
3. Leave about 400 mm of clear space behind the rear movement and dust path.
4. Still unplugged, unlock the transport pin. Slowly sweep the full slide, 50° left/right mitre range and intended bevel positions.
5. Confirm no part of the saw, guard, fence, slide, clamp or dust hose touches the bench edge, wall, ribs or fasteners.
6. Mark the four feet and the preferred clamp locations lightly in pencil.

Done when: the complete dry movement is unobstructed and the full base remains supported in every position.

1. Use at least two sound screw clamps at manufacturer-approved base or mounting areas, ideally diagonal from one another.
2. Protect the plywood with thin scrap pads; do not put pads where they let the clamp slide.
3. Tighten evenly until the base cannot shift by hand. Do not bend the cast base or clamp plastic controls.
4. Repeat the full unplugged movement check. A clamp handle must not enter the blade, turntable or slide path.
5. Push and pull the saw base with both hands. If the machine moves independently of the bench, improve the mounting before use.

Done when: saw and bench behave as one object, with all mechanisms and controls free.

1. Open the third and fourth trestles fully on the same firm floor.
2. Use the calculator’s required support height above bare trestle to choose a board on edge. A 36 × 148 may suit; do not assume—measure its real height and subtract the notch depth.
3. Seat the support board in a notch. Add hard, broad shims between support and workpiece surface as needed.
4. Lay a straight, known-flat board or long straightedge across the left support, saw table and right support.
5. At each boundary, try to slide paper under the straightedge. Adjust until the paper drag feels the same across all three surfaces.
6. Label and save each shim pack. Left and right may differ because the floor differs.

Done when: a long board stays against the saw fence without you pressing an end up or down.

• Bench is on firm ground; no foot rocks; trestles are fully open.
• All eight bench screws are flush; ribs are seated in all four notches.
• Saw is secured through approved mounting areas and cannot move.
• Blade guard moves freely and closes immediately; blade and table insert look undamaged.
• Slide, mitre and bevel paths are clear; nothing is stored behind or beneath the moving mechanism.
• Dust hose cannot touch the lower guard or cut path.
• Workpiece is inspected for screws, nails, severe bow and loose knots.
• Workpiece lies flat against table and fence, and is clamped with the supplied workpiece clamp.
• Both hands can remain at least 100 mm from either side of the blade path.
• Eye and hearing protection are on; loose clothing, hair and jewellery are secured.
• Outdoors: use an outdoor-rated, fully unrolled 16 A extension and 30 mA RCD as specified by SKIL.
• Everyone else stands outside the work area; no one acts as a human “wing”.

First scrap cut

1. With power disconnected, place and clamp one straight scrap at least large enough to hold safely.
2. Move the saw through a complete simulated cut to check clearances.
3. Connect power. Stand in the normal operating position, not in line with the blade.
4. Let the blade reach full speed before it touches wood. For a sliding cut, pull the head out without cutting, lower it, then push through the work as the SKIL manual instructs.
5. Release the switch, keep the head down and wait for the blade to stop completely before raising it or reaching for the offcut.
6. Disconnect power. Check every clamp, foot, rib and screw for movement. Recheck the cut with a reliable square.

Passed when: nothing moved, the work stayed flat, and the cut is square without forcing the wood.