The bench, the panels, and getting it home in a Fabia

Written 29 July 2026 · revised 30 July with prices read off the jem & fix shelf · saw + 4 sagbukker bought · companions: priser/JEMOGFIX-2026-07-30.md, SHOPPING-TRIP.md, saw-station-setup.html

Six questions, answered in build order: can you screw into the bukk (no — and you don't need to), how big the bench should be and what it is (1200 × 800, three parts, ~440 kr — and the wings are a separate thing), which panel (jem & fix limtre, at roughly half Byggmakker's price), do you need 48×48 (for the pallet shelf yes, for the bench no), where to cut the 4,8 m stick (§6 — not in half), and how much fits in the car (sticks: 2 m+, easily. Wide panels: much less — and that gap is the thing to design around).

30 July, after the shop visit. Three things changed. The 2000 mm “hylle” prices are no longer unknown (§5) — and the 2400 mm panel turns out to be cheaper in kroner than the shorter board. Benkeplater exist at 699–799 kr and would be a better bench top than the plywood if any of them fitted the car (§5). And the 48×48 comes in one length only, 4,8 m at 103 kr, which makes “where do I cut it” a real question with a specific answer (§6). The bench-top recommendation is unchanged: 12 mm kryssfiner, 800 × 1200, 379 kr — confirmed on the shelf.

The one rule that makes a one-saw workshop work: you have a mitre saw, which crosscuts to length. You have no way to rip. So every panel must be bought at its finished width — the shelf depth, the bench depth — and the only cut you ever make is across it. That means the widths on sale (200 / 250 / 300 / 400 / 500 / 600 mm) are your menu of shelf depths. Pick from the menu; don't design a depth and then hope.

1Three numbers to measure before you build anything

Every height on this page is derived from three measurements, and I don't have any of them — published specs for these bukker disagree (Obs says 81 cm, a UK distributor says 73,6 cm for what looks like the same product). Ten minutes with a tape and the arithmetic below is exact.

Measure A on the bukk Measure B in the notch tool tray moulded plastic beam — notches on top A top of bukk to floor ≈ 730–810 mm a 36×98 planke, dropped in on edge this is what the notch is for max 40 mm wide B notch depth — measure it 98 − B = how far it stands proud A 48×48 will NOT fit this notch (48 > 40). A 36×48 or 36×98 will. That single fact drives half the shopping list. C — the third number: how far the Skil's own table sits above its four feet. Roughly 90–100 mm. Measure it on the saw you now own.
A and C you measure with a tape; B you measure by dropping a scrap in the notch and seeing how deep it seats. Everything downstream is A + B + C.

2“Are you sure it's easy to screw into the sagbukk?” — No. Don't.

Fair challenge, and the earlier note was too casual about it. The Stanley Junior's top is moulded polypropylene over a ribbed void, maybe 3–5 mm of wall thickness. A screw into it bites into thin plastic that has no fibre to grip. It'll feel tight on the first turn and strip on the second, and every time you rack the bench sideways — which sawing does constantly — it works the hole bigger. Within a few sessions the top is loose again, which is exactly the failure the “screw it down” advice was trying to prevent.

The bukk was never designed to be screwed into. It was designed with notches that take lumber on edge so that two bukker plus two planks make a beam pair, and then you put a sheet on that. Every screw goes wood-into-wood.

✕ Screwing the top into the plastic plywood top plastic beam thin wall, no fibre → strips under racking sideways force every time you saw …and it never comes off cleanly for storage either. ✓ Battens under the top, seated in the notches plywood top screw goes into solid wood the notch stops the top sliding — no fastener needed there the batten also acts as a stiffening rib under thin ply (§3) and the whole top lifts off in two seconds for storage
Left is what the shopping list implied. Right is what the bukk was designed for. The batten is a 36×48 lekt — 36 mm because that's what fits the ≤40 mm notch.

If the notch turns out to be shallow or oddly spaced — some bukker only take lumber running lengthwise — the fallback is the same idea one step simpler: screw the two battens to the underside so they sit just outside the bukk's beam on each side, like the lip on a chopping board. The top then can't slide in the one direction that matters, and still nothing touches plastic.

3The bench: three parts, one afternoon

How big should it be? added 30 Jul

1200 long × 800 deep — and that isn't a number chosen because a plywood panel comes that way. It's what the derivation gives, and the panel happening to match is the luck.

DimensionMade ofComes to
Lengthsaw base width (~600) + a 90 mm clampable lip each side≥ 780 → 1200
Depthsaw base depth (~500) + 90 front + ~100 behind≥ 690 → 800
Bukk spacingset it to the saw's own left–right foot spacing, so each bukk stands directly under a pair of feet~500–600
Behind itfree air for the slide rails — not bench, just nothing there~400

The one number I don't have is the saw's footprint, and you own the saw. Put a tape across the Skil's cast base, front-to-back and side-to-side, and measure the spacing of the four bolt-down holes. Sixty seconds, and every figure above stops being a typical-for-the-class estimate. If the base turns out deeper than ~620 mm, the 800 mm panel gets tight at the front and you want the bukker running the other way.

Why not longer than 1200? Because length past the saw is the wings' job, not the bench's. A longer bench needs a third bukk, stops folding flat, and still doesn't support a 2,4 m board — you'd need 2,4 m of bench to do that. The saw station is three surfaces on one line, and only the middle one is a bench:

Plan view — the saw station is a line, not a table wing wing on 2 bukker on 2 bukker THE BENCH saw base fence + blade a 2400 mm board — supported dead level across all three surfaces bukker here — under the saw's feet 1200 800 ≈ 3000 mm of line — but only 1200 of it is bench The wings sit ~95 mm higher than the bench top, because that is how far the saw's own table rises above it (§4).
The bench carries the saw. The wings carry the wood. Confusing the two is what makes people build a 2,4 m bench they then can't fold, move or fit in the garage.

“What about a hylle gran 18 × 400 × 2000, 479 kr?” (art. 9062751 — the 40×200 board on the shelf photo.) Right instinct, wrong surface. 400 mm is too shallow for the saw to stand on at all — the base alone is deeper than that — so it can't be the bench. But it is a very good wing: a 2 m flat surface at saw-table height beats the bare 36×98 plank-on-edge in §4, because you get somewhere to put a stop block and the offcuts instead of a knife edge.

The catch, and it's the recurring one: 400 mm is wider than the saw's 305 mm crosscut. You cannot cut that board — ever, with this saw. Buy it only if you want it whole. The 18 × 300 × 2000 at 369 kr can be crosscut, but with 5 mm of margin, which is not margin. The widest board you can comfortably cut is ~280 mm. Treat anything wider as a finished part the day you buy it.

The parts

That's the whole thing. Two bukker, one panel, two battens.

The panel is genuinely birch, and that's why 379 kr is the bargain it is. confirmed 30 Jul The product page for art. 9021536 (brand Hornbaek, made by Protræ A/S) states bjørk. Most plywood at that price in Norway is poplar or softwood: birch has more, thinner plies, roughly half again the density, holds a screw driven into its edge, and doesn't crush under a clamp. On a bench top — which is a clamped, screwed, dented surface — that difference is the whole product.

The glue is water-resistant, not waterproof. Fine for an unheated garage; not fine for rain, and not fine stored flat on gravel or concrete, which wicks. Store it on edge, off the floor. And sight along it in the shop before you take it — plywood cups in a rack, and a cupped bench top is a bench top you'll fight forever.

PartWhatWherePrice
TopKryssfiner bjørk 12 × 800 × 1200 mmart. 9021536, confirmed 30 Jul Hornbaek / Protræ A/S. Arrives at exactly the right size, needs no cut, lies flat in the bootjem & fix379
Battens ×236 × 48 lekt, 2 × 1200 mm — cut from one 2,4 m stick with the new sawObs Bygg / jem & fix~50
Screws4,0 × 50 TX20 — the box you're buying anyway. Through 12 mm ply into a 48 mm batten leaves 38 mm of bite and 10 mm of margin before it exits.on the list already
Totala real bench with a clampable edge on all four sides≈ 430 kr
Underside of the top, laid out 12 mm birch ply · 1200 × 800 batten 36 × 48 × 1200 batten 36 × 48 × 1200 8 screws, from the top face down countersunk flush — a proud screw head will scratch every workpiece you slide bukk bukk ≈ 750 mm apart put them under the saw's front and rear feet, not at the panel's ends ~90 mm of free edge — this is where every clamp goes. Keep an unobstructed lip all the way round; it is 80% of what makes an improvised bench feel like a real one. Seen end-on ply battens bukk bench top height = A + (48 − B) + 12 mm e.g. 760 + 30 + 12 = 802 mm
The battens do three jobs at once: they locate the top in the notches, they let every screw land in wood, and they act as ribs that stop 12 mm ply flexing under a 15 kg saw. A 48 mm deep rib under thin ply is worth far more stiffness than 6 mm of extra ply thickness.

Why 12 mm ply is enough here, when the earlier note said 15–18. Unribbed, 12 mm over a 750 mm span with a saw bolted to it would visibly bounce. Ribbed with two 48 mm battens on edge, stiffness goes up roughly with the cube of the effective depth — the batten, not the ply, is carrying the load. This is the same reason a floor is joists plus thin decking rather than one thick slab.

4What the other two bukker are for — and the height that decides the cut

You bought four. Two are the bench. The other two are the thing that actually determines whether your cuts come out square: outriggers at exactly the saw's own table height. The saw's table sits ~90–100 mm above whatever it's bolted to, so a bukk on its own is far too low — a 2 m board rests on the bukk, tips, and lifts off the saw fence mid-cut.

bench top Skil 1321 — its table 36×98 planke on edge, in the notch a 2,4 m board, carried dead level from end to end everything lands on this one line outrigger plank height = (bench top − A) + C = (48 − B) + 12 + C Worked example, if A=760, B=18, C=95: (48−18) + 12 + 95 = 137 mm. A 36×148 planke on edge, seated 18 mm into the notch, stands 130 mm proud → 7 mm of shim. Close enough to fix with cardboard.
This is the single most common reason beginners conclude their new mitre saw is inaccurate. It isn't — the board was tipping. Two spare bukker and two offcuts fix it permanently.

Shim with something you can trim. Corrugated cardboard is ~1,5 mm a layer and a stack of it under the plank gets you to the millimetre in thirty seconds. Once it's right, glue the stack together and write “OUTRIGGER” on it in marker so you never re-derive it.

5The hobbypanel question — you're right, and jem & fix is half price

Your instinct at Byggmakker was correct: 18 mm limtre hobbyplate is the right material for shelving in a shop with no rip capability. It comes flat, stable, already at a usable width, and every joint you make is a butt joint on a square edge. It is not the right material for the bench top though — plywood is stiffer per krone and doesn't care about grain direction.

What surprised me is the price spread. Identical spec, identical 18 mm laminated pine:

18 mm limtre paneljem & fixkr/m²Byggmakkerkr/m²
18 × 600 × 2400489340959666
18 × 400 × 2400389405639666
18 × 500 × 2400839699
18 × 300 × 2400479665
18 × 250 × 2400399665
18 × 200 × 2400399831
18 × 600 × 1200599832
18 × 400 × 1200339706
18 × 300 × 1200259719
18 × 200 × 1200189787
massiv gran 18 × 300 × 1000129430
massiv gran 18 × 200 × 100099,90500

Three things fall straight out of that table:

  1. jem & fix is roughly half price for the same thing. 489 vs 959 kr for 18×600×2400. Their Hamar store is at Holabekkvegen 46, Furnes — the same Olrud/Furnes cluster as Obs Bygg and Byggmax, so it costs you nothing to add.
  2. Wide is cheaper per m² than narrow, and long is cheaper than short. Byggmakker charges the same 399 kr for the 200 mm and the 250 mm panel — so the 200 is simply never the right buy there. And their 1200 mm lengths cost 6–25% more per m² than the 2400s.
  3. But wide and long is exactly what won't fit in the car (§7). That tension is the real decision, not the price.

The range that fits the car — jem & fix “Hylle” prices read in store 30 Jul

added 29 Jul Since 2 m of narrow stock does go in (§7), a second jem & fix range becomes relevant that the price table above misses entirely: untreated pine and spruce shelf boards at 2000 mm, in 18 and 28 mm thickness and 200 / 300 / 400 mm widths. At 28 mm these are noticeably stiffer than 18 mm limtre — sag goes with the cube of thickness, so 28 mm is roughly three and a half times stiffer than 18 mm at the same span. For a bookshelf that's the difference between needing supports every 600 mm and getting away with 800.

The aggregators had disagreed by a factor of five on these (100 / 339 / 489 kr for the same article), so the previous version of this page refused to guess and said read them off the shelf. Done — 30 July 2026:

Hylle, 2000 mm long200 mm300 mm400 mmkr/m²
gran / furu 18 mm249369479599–622
furu 28 mm569719899–948
eik 16 mm4496998991 123–1 165

The 2400 panel is cheaper in kroner than the 2000 board. Hylle limtre 18 × 400 × 2400 is 389 kr; hylle gran 18 × 400 × 2000 is 479 kr. Same thickness, same width, 20 % more wood, 90 kr less.

So the 2 m boards are not a cheaper range — they are a transport range, and you pay a 90 kr premium for the privilege of getting them home. That's a fine trade on one board and a bad one on six. Put the two side by side and check the grade before assuming they're identical stock; the article-number series differ (9066927 vs 9062751).

The 28 mm furu is the real find in that table: 569 kr for 300 × 2000. It is the stiffness this page was hoping for, at ~50 % more per m² than the 18 mm — for a shelf that actually carries books, that is the honest buy. Full transcribed price list, 60-odd lines, in priser/JEMOGFIX-2026-07-30.md.

Benkeplater — the best bench top in the shop, and you can't get one home

added 30 Jul Not in the panel aisle at all — stacked flat on pallet racking. 28 mm laminate worktop, 610 mm wide: 699 kr at 2600 mm, 799 kr at 3000 mm (≈437 kr/m²); untreated solid furu 28 × 610 × 2000 at 999 kr.

On the merits this beats 12 mm plywood as a bench top and it isn't close: heavier (the granite-look one is 35 kg, and mass is what stops a bench walking), flatter, wipes clean, and PVA won't stick to laminate — the same property that makes melamine the ideal book-press platen (HOBBY-BRIEF.md §4). §8 of this page already said “a used worktop from finn.no would be better than the ply”. Here it is new, for 799 kr.

And every one of them is 610 mm wide × 2,0–3,0 m long — precisely the wide-and-flat shape that the Fabia caps at 1520 mm (§7), and 610 mm cannot be crosscut on a 305 mm mitre saw. There is no version of this that fits in the car and no way to make it fit once it's home.

File it as the upgrade: takstativ, trailer, or a borrowed van. Worth one question at the counter — does jem & fix cut? Danish discount yards usually don't, but a single crosscut at 1200 mm would solve the entire problem for a few kroner.

What about the white hobbyplate?

jem & fix sells white-faced hobbyplate at 399 kr for 18×600×2400 (≈277 kr/m²) — cheaper than any real wood. It's MDF or particleboard under the melamine. For a garage utility shelf holding boxes, fine. For books, no: 18 mm MDF at 700+ mm unsupported span visibly sags under book load and never comes back, and in an unheated garage the edges swell if they ever get damp. Real wood or plywood for anything that has to stay straight.

Verified 30 July 2026. The jem & fix column above came from their web catalogue and has now been read off the shelf: 18 × 600 × 2400 = 489 kr and 18 × 400 × 2400 = 389 kr, both confirmed, and the white hobbyplate is 399 kr for 18 × 600 × 2400 and 229 kr for 18 × 300 × 2400. The Byggmakker column is still web-sourced. The ratio — roughly half price for the same spec — survives contact with the shelf.

648×48 — needed for one thing, overkill for another

You're right that it looks chunky. It isn't large by construction standards — it's under two inches — but it's the wrong stick for some of these jobs.

JobUseWhy
Pallet shelf posts project #048 × 48 yesThese are load columns under 25 kg fertiliser sacks. Also: a 48 mm face gives you room to drive a screw in from the side without splitting an edge. Cheapest thing that's obviously strong enough.
Bookshelf posts48 × 48 yesPost stiffness is what stops the Ivar wobble. Don't economise here.
Bench battens36 × 48 not 48×4848 mm won't fit the bukk's ≤40 mm notch. 36 mm will.
Outrigger planks36 × 98 or 36 × 148Same reason — 36 mm thickness to seat in the notch, the 98/148 is the height you need to reach saw-table level.
Diagonal braces21 × 70 lektA brace works in tension/compression along its length; thickness buys nothing.

“Do I pay for the whole 4 m even if I cut it?”

Yes. You buy the stick, not the piece. The offcut is yours to take home or leave in their bin. But there's a much better move available at Obs Bygg specifically:

Obs Bygg prices 48×48 ubehandlet per metre — 24,90 kr/m — and sells it “i fallende lengder”, i.e. mixed lengths straight from the rack. So a 4,8 m stick is ~120 kr and a 2,4 m stick is ~60 kr, and you are not forced to take the long one. Dig through the rack for the shortest sticks that cover your cut list. That solves the transport problem and the “paying for wood I'll never use” problem in one move.

What jem & fix actually charges read in store 30 Jul

Lekter kl.1 G-F 48×48, 4,8 m — 103 kr, and 4,8 m is the only length they stock. The label prints 21,46 in the corner as pris pr. M, which makes it the cheapest 48×48 found in Hamar: 14 % under Obs Bygg's 24,90 kr/m, and well under the 129 kr Byggmax/Bergene Holm reference for the same stick.

But that 14 % is worth about 50 kr, and it costs you a hand-cut in the car park. For the ~10,4 m of parts below: five 2,4 m sticks at Obs = 299 kr and they go straight in the car. Three 4,8 m sticks at jem & fix = 309 kr and none of them fits.

So the falling-lengths rack wins if it's real — that claim is still web-sourced and unverified. If Obs's rack is all 4,8 m that day, it's 359 kr for the same wood and the same car-park cut, and jem & fix is the buy. Either way, keep a handsaw in the car.

Where to cut the 4,8 m stick

The stick doesn't fit the car, so the first cut is a transport cut, made in the car park with a handsaw before anything else happens. Where you put it decides everything downstream — and the temptation is to halve it, because halving is what you do when you don't have a plan.

Don't halve it. 2 × 2400 is right at the limit of what threads past the front seats (§7), and it forces a second decision later. Cut to parts instead, and let the stock length choose the part length rather than the other way round:

One 4,8 m stick of 48×48 — 103 kr 1970 1970 400 400 bookshelf post bookshelf post pallet-shelf posts ~40 cut 1 — car park cut 2 — car park at home 4800 Two cuts in the car park, both at 1990 — 20 mm of slop, squared to 1970 at home. Nothing leaving the shop is longer than 2 m, so nothing is a squeeze. Waste per stick: ~40 mm. That is 99 % of the wood turned into parts.
1970 + 1970 + 400 + 400 = 4740 mm, plus three 3 mm kerfs and ~10 mm of squaring at the original ends. The stick is 4800. Everything fits, with 40 mm to spare and no piece over 2 m.

Why 1970 and not 2000. Because 2000 doesn't leave room for the two short posts, and 20 mm of bookshelf height is worth nothing to you. This is the move that answers your question generally: when stock comes in one fixed length, pick your part length to divide it, not to match a round number in your head. A 1970 mm bookshelf is exactly as good as a 2000 mm one and costs 30 % less wood across the build.

Why 400 for the short posts. The pallet-shelf post wants to be 350–450 mm, decided by measuring a fertiliser sack. 400 sits mid-range and drops out of the arithmetic for free. If the sack says otherwise, anything from 350 to 415 still fits the offcut. (SHOPPING-TRIP.md §5 is where that range comes from.)

StickskrWhat you get
11032 posts + 2 short posts. Enough to start, not enough to finish either project.
3 the buy3096 × 1970 and 6 × 400. The six pallet-shelf posts, exactly. Four bookshelf posts for one bay, plus two spare that become rungs, outrigger blocks and stop blocks.

Sight the stick before you mark it. Cheap lekt bows and twists, and post straightness is most of what stops the Ivar wobble. Sight down all three, and put the straightest 2 m runs where the 1970s fall — mark the cut lines around the bad bits, not at a fixed distance from the end. That's a real optimisation and it's free.

Cut long in the car park (mark 1990, cut on the waste side) and square both ends at home on the mitre saw. A handsaw cut is not square and doesn't need to be — it's a transport cut, and every end that matters gets re-cut anyway.

On cutting services, one thing worth knowing before you plan around it: Byggmax has no cutting service — it's a self-service drive-in yard with a bench and a loaner handsaw. Obs Bygg, Byggmakker, Maxbo and Montér normally do have a kappesag, usually with a per-cut fee, but ring first rather than arriving with a 4,8 m plan. And as you found, nobody rips lengthwise for retail customers, which is why §0 is the rule it is.

7Getting it home in the Fabia

revised 29 Jul The car is the Fabia III estate — confirmed by the VIN, where position 4 (TMBJR6NJ…) denotes estate body, LHD, single-axle drive. Worth knowing for ordering roof bars later: Škoda's own name for the estate is “Combi”, so a Fabia Combi is the stasjonsvogn — same car, and every accessory catalogue lists it that way.

The published figure of 1520 mm is real but narrower in meaning than I first wrote it. It is the flat rectangle on the boot floor with the rear backrests down — and the Fabia's folded backrests leave a step, so that's a conservative measure taken at floor level. It is not the longest thing that goes in the car. Two metres of stick goes in easily, over the step and forward into the footwell.

So there are two separate limits, and only one of them is 1520 mm:

Long and narrow — lekt, planke, a single shelf board on edge — rides over the folded backrests, angled up into the passenger footwell or threaded past the front seats. 2000 mm is comfortable; ~2400 mm is reachable with the passenger seat slid forward.

Wide and flat — a 400–600 mm panel — can't tilt, can't thread, can't use the diagonal. It's stuck with the floor rectangle, and that's where 1520 mm bites.

Get your own number before the next trip. Fold the seats, put a tape on the floor from the tailgate to the front seat backs, and then run it again along the top of the folded backrests to the windscreen. Two measurements, sixty seconds, and every future “will it fit?” is settled.

Plan view — what actually fits front seats rear seats folded 1520 mm flat rectangle on the floor — the limit for WIDE panels only lekt / planke / a board on edge, over the fold → 2000 mm easily, ~2400 reachable ≈ 2400 mm slide the passenger seat forward. Nothing wide and flat goes this way. Diagonally across the boot floor you gain a little — about 1800 mm — but only for something narrow. A 600 mm wide panel cannot use the diagonal. A 2400 mm × 600 mm panel is the one shape that defeats all three routes.
Load length 1520 mm with the rear seats down. Long thin stock can be threaded forward between the front seats to roughly 2,4 m; anything wide is capped at the boot floor.

The roof

Three separate things have to be true, and the first one probably isn't:

A 4,8 m lekt on a Fabia roof is legal-if-marked and still a bad idea. Crossbars on a Fabia are maybe 70–90 cm apart. A 4,8 m stick clamped over that span is a 2 m lever at each end — it flexes, drums, and levers on the mounts at motorway speed. If you're going to carry 4,8 m stock, it wants a proper long-load setup or a trailer, neither of which you have.

Buy short instead. With Obs Bygg selling by the metre in falling lengths, nothing forces you to.

8The cheapest possible first basket

Everything in one trip to the Olrud/Furnes cluster. This gets the bench built and project #0 done, and buys nothing you'd regret.

StopItemkrFits the car?
jem & fix
Holabekkvegen 46, Furnes · man–lør 8–19
Kryssfiner bjørk 12 × 800 × 1200 — the bench top379✓ flat in the boot
Trefiberplate 2,5 mm 610 × 1220 — sacrificial layer, and it doubles as the book-press platen49,90✓ flat in the boot
optional Hylle limtre 18 × 400 × 2400 — cheapest per m²389✕ needs roof or a cut
optional Hylle furu 28 × 300 × 2000 — stiffer, and it fits569✓ over the fold
Obs Bygg
Olrud
Lekt 36 × 48, one short stick → 2 battens @1200. not stocked at jem & fix — the one thing on this list with no confirmed source~50✓ threaded through
48 × 48 ubehandlet — pick the shortest sticks in the rack, ~2,4 m, for the six pallet-shelf posts. If the rack is all 4,8 m, buy 3 at jem & fix for 103 and cut per §6~60/stk✓ threaded through
Obs Bygg / BiltemaSkruer 4,0×50 TX20 og 5,0×40 TX25 · borforsenkersett · trelim D3 · vinkelhake · 2 tvinger~400
Totalbench + project #0 + the hardware you'd buy anyway≈ 900–1 300

Two cheaper alternatives worth thirty seconds' thought

What I would not buy on this trip: a 1220×2440 sheet of anything. At 178 kr/m² the 12 mm plywood sheet is by far the cheapest surface material in Hamar — less than half the small panel's rate — but it doesn't fit the car, nobody will rip it for you, and you don't yet own a way to break it down. Once the bench exists and you've added a straightedge saw guide, full sheets become the obvious buy. That's the upgrade, not the start.

9Should the bukker go back? No — and table legs would be a downgrade

Worth asking while they're still boxed. The honest scoring: they are not the absolute cheapest trestle in Hamar, but they're the right one, and table legs solve a different problem than the one you have.

Option4 supportsWhat you getWhat breaks
Stanley STST1-70355
what you bought
798362 kg/pair · folds to 8,9 cm · ≤40 mm notches · rubber feet · tool trayfixed height; racks unless weighted
Obs Bygg bordben Ø30 mm, 90 cm596brushed steel, ~20 mm of levelling adjustmentno load rating published; furniture hardware; nothing folds; no bracing
Biltema/Jula “sagbukk” from the motorsag aisle~400–680cheap, steel, foldswrong tool — see below. Jula's is rated 100 kg.
Kellen sagbord, Obs Bygg999saw brackets · wheels · adjustable feet · arms 118–198 cmno work surface at all — you'd still buy a bench

A Norwegian-language trap I walked into in the earlier brief. “Sagbukk” means two unrelated tools: the carpenter's trestle (what you bought) and the firewood sawbuck that holds a log while you chainsaw it. The cheap 100–170 kr ones at Biltema and Jula, filed under motorsagtilbehør, are the second kind — V-shaped, toothed, and useless as bench legs. The earlier “you could have paid less at Biltema” note was comparing against the wrong product. Biltema's actual work trestle is the arbeidsbukk, in the painting aisle, and it is not meaningfully cheaper.

Why not screw legs straight into the plate

✕ four vertical legs, no bracing plate sawing all of it lands on 4 screws into the edge of thin ply A rectangle with pinned corners is not a stable shape. It folds. ✓ splayed trestle = triangles same force A triangle can't change shape without a member changing length.
This is why every real workbench has either splayed legs or an apron/stretcher frame, and why a four-legged table with straight legs and no bracing wobbles. Ø30 mm legs on 59×59 mm mounting plates, screwed into 12 mm ply, put the entire lateral load of sawing onto four short screws in plywood — the weakest possible detail.

The three reasons to keep them, in order of how much they matter

  1. You need four supports, not four legs. Fixed legs give you one surface at one height. Four trestles give you a bench plus two outriggers at saw-table height (§4) — and outrigger support is the single largest factor in whether your crosscuts come out square. Legs cannot do this at any price.
  2. They fold, and your floor is gravel. DUST.md's conclusion was to work outdoors or on the driveway for the first sessions and build a platform later. A bench on fixed legs lives permanently wherever you assembled it. These fold to 89 mm and go with you.
  3. A trestle is a tool; a leg is a furniture part. They'll hold doors for painting, carry sheets for breakdown, and become the second bench when the first one is permanent — for the next twenty years. The 200 kr you might have saved on a no-name pair buys none of that, and no-name pairs don't have the 40 mm notch this entire bench design hangs on.

The one purchase that would genuinely beat this is the Kellen sagbord at 999 kr — adjustable feet (the real answer to gravel) and 118–198 cm arms (outriggers, solved properly). It's still the right upgrade once the station stops moving. But it gives you no work surface, which is the thing you currently have none of, so it's an addition later — not a reason to return anything now.